What FREE hard drive cloning software would you recommend?

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Sethno
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21 Apr 2016, 9:28 am

Okay. Thanks to your help, I made the changes (hope I can remember how to change things back...yeah...I forgot to write down the info before making the changes :roll: )...

The Windows 32 bit disc started up and it got to the screen where it asked where on the hard drive I wanted to install Windows.

I told it the main partition.

It wouldn't click.

The software then told me "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. The selected disk is of the GPT partition style."

:?:

Any suggestions on what to use to wipe the drive and start all over again?

Also, as for restoring the original settings, it's a Lenovo T430s laptop. I have two Lenovo PCs. Might their settings be the same as what the laptop's were (in case when I try to change the laptop back, I can't remember how things were)?


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Edenthiel
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21 Apr 2016, 11:55 pm

Have you tried doing a custom install and when you get to the step of choosing a partition, deleting the main partition? If you do so and then continue with the install, the setup will create the partition it needs. Still safest in this case to have your BIOS set to legacy/MBR before you start.


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Sethno
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22 Apr 2016, 1:37 pm

Edenthiel wrote:
Have you tried doing a custom install and when you get to the step of choosing a partition, deleting the main partition? If you do so and then continue with the install, the setup will create the partition it needs. Still safest in this case to have your BIOS set to legacy/MBR before you start.


It wouldn't allow the partition to be deleted.

Here's what I did do-
Since the GPT format seemed to be the problem, I took the 1TB drive and cloned a 32bit drive from another computer to the 1TB drive. This wiped everything, including all traces of the GPT format. I then plugged the 1TB drive into another computer using a USB adapter, and formatted it (NTFS). This now made it totally blank, and still not using GPT.

I put it into the laptop, and set the BIOS for "Legacy Only" as opposed to UEFI/Legacy ("Both").

I saw nothing about "MBR".

I then used a newly created Windows 10 32bit disc to try and install. Notice...TRY.

The foolish thing is telling me it can't find the hard drive. In prior installations I've seen the screen that came up. Normally the partitions are there, each listed separately. This time, NOTHING was listed. It's as if there's no hard drive plugged in. I know the machine is okay, because the original drive, upgraded to 10 64bit, works perfectly.

I have no doubt that if I re-clone that original drive to the 1TB drive again, it will also work perfectly.

WHY is this blank, formatted 1TB drive not showing up when I try to install 10 32bit?

The only thing I can figure is that the installation software is looking for an existing Windows installation to upgrade to 10. Thing is, the instructions seem to suggest otherwise, since it says 'if you're not upgrading, but instead doing a fresh install, you'll have to have a Windows key ready to type in'.

I've already ordered a brand new copy of Windows 7 Pro 32bit off Amazon, and will have to try and install THAT on the 1TB drive, and then upgrade it to 10.

Watch...

The computer won't recognize the drive then, either. I just know it.

ANY idea why the hard drive isn't showing up? Could this laptop be MADE to not recognize a drive unless it's got GPT formatting?

EDIT:
I've tried using the Windows installation/upgrade disc's option to "repair your computer". It's been running with the Windows symbol on the screen and the little circle dots spinning...for nearly an hour. I suspect it'll end up doing NOTHING. If that's the case, tho', why is it even trying? Heh.


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mik9
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23 Apr 2016, 10:44 am

Maybe the Legacy Mode also affects the hdd-controller. Have you tried in UEFI Mode?



AspieUtah
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23 Apr 2016, 5:26 pm

AspieUtah wrote:
I use HDClone 6 from Miray. Simple enough for me to use. But, I always forget that it won't allow overwriting, so I need to reformat the clone device before creating a new clone.

I wrote too soon. HD Clone 6.0.5 worked fine, but the new (April 13) 6.0.7 update has crashed every time, and wants to spend 9-12 hours [!] accomplishing a 1TB cloning. What?!?


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Edenthiel
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23 Apr 2016, 7:31 pm

For when a Windows install fails and you want to start from scratch, there's Gparted:

http://gparted.org/index.php

And when everything else fails, there's DBAN, followed by GParted to make a new NTFS partition or two.


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Sethno
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26 Apr 2016, 2:31 pm

UPDATE:

The repair did fix the computer and get it running, but the partitions were...strange. Others, besides the Windows partition, had been assigned drive letters. I took the drive out of the computer, hooked it up to another and did a full (not quick) format. Then, once that was finally done, I removed the partition so it was now showing as "unallocated space".

Put it back into the laptop and got the Windows 10 install disc going...

Maybe a half hour later the thing was up and running, no problems. I just had to set up my desktop again and reinstall some programs.

Do have another question tho...

On the computer BUILD I'm doing, should I worry that a test of the power supply didn't get the fan to start spinning? I plugged it in just to test it, and turned it on. (No, the computer build isn't finished yet.) The fan didn't move, and there were no sounds from the power supply.

Are they built to only "come to life" when everything is connected?

Also, my CPU and its cooler fan didn't come with thermal paste. Any suggestions on a brand to buy and a good source to order it from (such as Amazon or New Egg)?

Thanks for all this help, by the way.


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What would these results mean? Been told here I must be a "half pint".


Edenthiel
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26 Apr 2016, 3:10 pm

The power supply will only turn on if the motherboard is connected and the case power switch is pushed.

It is possible to circumvent this by connecting two wires on the ATX connector that goes to the motherboard, but it's a really bad idea to do this as the power supply is not designed to run without a load. There are inexpensive testers that both provide a load and "tell" the power supply that a motherboard is attached and the power button has been pressed.

Both Amazon & New Egg are just resellers; either will do. Arctic is a good brand. There are others, of course and any name brand will do. On CPU's less than say 100 watts that have an adequate heat sink I've used just standard (good quality) heat sink grease & the difference was only two or three degrees until it reached equilibrium. I've even used Radio Shack compound intended for transistors and rectifiers that actually performed well and did not dry out. Do NOT buy super cheap, no-name heat sink compound from China on eBay; some of it is just white grease + silicon dioxide or other pigment. The really expensive compounds in my opinion are only worth it if you are building a rig that is pushing limits. Just be sure to skim as thin a layer as possible of whatever you do use.


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Sethno
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26 Apr 2016, 4:08 pm

Would this be a good choice?

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-The ... ge_o00_s00

I've seen enough videos on YouTube from Paul's Hardware, JayzTwoCents and others, to know a spot of paste about the size of a pea or even a bit smaller is what to aim for. Right?


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Your Aspie score: 100 of 200 / Your neurotypical (non-autistic) score: 101 of 200
You seem to have both Aspie and neurotypical traits

What would these results mean? Been told here I must be a "half pint".


Edenthiel
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26 Apr 2016, 8:03 pm

Sethno wrote:
Would this be a good choice?

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-The ... ge_o00_s00

I've seen enough videos on YouTube from Paul's Hardware, JayzTwoCents and others, to know a spot of paste about the size of a pea or even a bit smaller is what to aim for. Right?


Yep, Arctic 5 is good stuff. The only time I'd spend more time or money tracking down something better is if I planned on overclocking or was otherwise worried about squeezing every bit of performance I could out of the cooling system.

I don't think I've ever used a blob the size of a green pea, but it wouldn't hurt except for waste. I usually just smear some on the cpu heat spreader in a zig-zag pattern & then use a credit card or similar to skim it in each direction until every square millimeter has some on it, adding a bit more if needed. Then I wipe the card clean and skim it as thin as possible.


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Last edited by Edenthiel on 26 Apr 2016, 9:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

varlar
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26 Apr 2016, 8:35 pm

Sethno wrote:
Okay. Thanks to your help, I made the changes (hope I can remember how to change things back...yeah...I forgot to write down the info before making the changes :roll: )...

The Windows 32 bit disc started up and it got to the screen where it asked where on the hard drive I wanted to install Windows.

I told it the main partition.

It wouldn't click.

The software then told me "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. The selected disk is of the GPT partition style."

:?:

Any suggestions on what to use to wipe the drive and start all over again?

Also, as for restoring the original settings, it's a Lenovo T430s laptop. I have two Lenovo PCs. Might their settings be the same as what the laptop's were (in case when I try to change the laptop back, I can't remember how things were)?

For people configuring their PCs for the first time all by themselves, an error message like “Windows cannot be installed on this Disk” can be a big time problem. One, the message explains little about its cause and second, most of us don’t really have a lot of experience in setting up systems. The problem, however, is not as elephantine as it seems. It is simply a compatibility issue. This problem generally occurs when you try to install windows on a UEFI-based system while your hard drive partition scheme does not support UEFI.
To solve this problem WITHOUT DATA LOSS, you need to convert GPT to MBR disk or enable UEFI boot mode in BIOS if your motherboard support UEFI. By the way, you can use a freeware AOMEI Partition Assistant to convert disk between MBR and GPT without data loss.



Sethno
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27 Apr 2016, 11:37 pm

Edenthiel wrote:
Sethno wrote:
Would this be a good choice?

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-The ... ge_o00_s00

I've seen enough videos on YouTube from Paul's Hardware, JayzTwoCents and others, to know a spot of paste about the size of a pea or even a bit smaller is what to aim for. Right?


Yep, Arctic 5 is good stuff. The only time I'd spend more time or money tracking down something better is if I planned on overclocking or was otherwise worried about squeezing every bit of performance I could out of the cooling system.

I don't think I've ever used a blob the size of a green pea, but it wouldn't hurt except for waste. I usually just smear some on the cpu heat spreader in a zig-zag pattern & then use a credit card or similar to skim it in each direction until every square millimeter has some on it, adding a bit more if needed. Then I wipe the card clean and skim it as thin as possible.


Ummm... Look what someone showed me-

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ ... 05576.html
(Click on "When is additional TIM not required?")

My fan/cooler/whatever has three stripes of material on the underside. They look like what's in the photos, but don't quite as much area.

Would it damage anything if I used the thermal paste in addition to whatever it is that's already on the fan?


_________________
AQ 31
Your Aspie score: 100 of 200 / Your neurotypical (non-autistic) score: 101 of 200
You seem to have both Aspie and neurotypical traits

What would these results mean? Been told here I must be a "half pint".


Edenthiel
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28 Apr 2016, 12:56 am

Sethno wrote:
Edenthiel wrote:
Sethno wrote:
Would this be a good choice?

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-The ... ge_o00_s00

I've seen enough videos on YouTube from Paul's Hardware, JayzTwoCents and others, to know a spot of paste about the size of a pea or even a bit smaller is what to aim for. Right?


Yep, Arctic 5 is good stuff. The only time I'd spend more time or money tracking down something better is if I planned on overclocking or was otherwise worried about squeezing every bit of performance I could out of the cooling system.

I don't think I've ever used a blob the size of a green pea, but it wouldn't hurt except for waste. I usually just smear some on the cpu heat spreader in a zig-zag pattern & then use a credit card or similar to skim it in each direction until every square millimeter has some on it, adding a bit more if needed. Then I wipe the card clean and skim it as thin as possible.


Ummm... Look what someone showed me-

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ ... 05576.html
(Click on "When is additional TIM not required?")

My fan/cooler/whatever has three stripes of material on the underside. They look like what's in the photos, but don't quite as much area.

Would it damage anything if I used the thermal paste in addition to whatever it is that's already on the fan?


It would inhibit heat transfer to use both, so use one or the other. I'd use the TIM that's pre-attached to the heatsink, especially if it actually came from Intel or AMD with the CPU, or is otherwise a name brand cooler. It's likely chosen to work with that cooler and often will be very nicely applied. One less thing to worry about.


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Sethno
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28 Apr 2016, 6:21 pm

I put the CPU in place earlier today, and then figured out how to get the cooler locked down. (No regular screws...weird plastic setup).

Put into the DVD drive a Chipset Setup DVD that came with the motherboard, but ended up being asked to use a floppy disc drive (which this computer doesn't have).

I pulled the Asus DVD, and inserted the Windows 7 CD I'd bought as a foundation for upgrading to 10.

Once 7 was in place, I didn't mess with it at all. I immediately upgraded to 10.

It's working nicely. :D

The USB/sound port thingie I'd bought to put into the empty floppy disc drive bay...
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-FP32B ... 28Black%29

The audio ports in it don't want to cooperate. Attempts to use them made the headphone/speaker jack on the motherboard go dead. (Dead as in "didn't come back on when the headphones were unplugged".) Something about HD audio...which the motherboard is supposed to support.

Used the taskbar controls to get the speakers up and running again, and it's staying that way.

Eh. The computer never had front audio ports to begin with, so nothing's lost. And if I want to go into the audio controls on the taskbar, I can temporarily turn them on. Turns out there's also no firewire connection on the motherboard, so that port on the "thingie" is going to stay dead.

The USB ports on the "thingie"? Working fine. (Let's call that thing a "module".)

I've still got little bits and pieces to do here and there. The case is white/beige, and I want to spray paint the floppy bay module to match it, and I've got to find something to seal up the opening around motherboard ports (the hole that was cut isn't quite in the right place to allow the rectangular port frame that came with the motherboard...it's about 1/16 of an inch off...the ports are still totally usable), but for the most part, the job is done.

I wanted to say a BIG "THANK YOU" for all the help that was given here (and elsewhere in the forum).

I BUILT A COMPUTER! !! (With a good deal of assistance.)

Thank you again.


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AQ 31
Your Aspie score: 100 of 200 / Your neurotypical (non-autistic) score: 101 of 200
You seem to have both Aspie and neurotypical traits

What would these results mean? Been told here I must be a "half pint".


Edenthiel
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28 Apr 2016, 9:31 pm

:D :D :D Congratulations! :D :D :D

Image

('cause that's how it feels when you get a system up and running that has been a little reluctant to cooperate)


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