im with you guys the ocean is the most naturally soothing thing imo- when I'm having a breakdown or feeling depressed I go to the ocean to escape. Just being seaside calms me down and resets my mind .
I think I kind of understand why Marzo is able to do all of those crazy carves and spins- your right wavefreak its just the intensity that aspies can focus at. Marzo must be able to as cheesy as it sounds, "feel" the waves and "be" the wave otherwise those crazy spins and rubberlegging he does could never work- its gotta be spot on at the exact right time and not even guys like kelly slater could do that kind of maneuvering.
And I did go to school in Oregon until last term. I'm all for trying new things but Oregon was just too different, a 180 deree turn around from Hawaii. Weather, people, culture, heck food and music were alien to me. the 3 years i was there i was pretty much sticking it out the whole time not feeling comfortable. The biggest difficulty was the socializing, if you've been to Hawaii you'll know that people here talk pigeon English which is kind of like a surfer/hawaiian version of ebonics....thats what i grew up speaking and listening. Going to rural rednecky Oregon (no offense Oregonians) where people were hicks, skinheads, homeless , from the bay area or different in general , the style of speech was so different it was difficult to adjust...i'm already impaired socially to begin with but that was pretty much asking me to socialize in another language. it would be like asking a guy from the inner city of Detroit to try go live with WASPs from New England for 3 years, its just not going to work- not only in the speech style aspect but pretty much everything from dress, music , food and hobbies